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| Casting problems Hi there, i am a relative novice in fly fishing, and have a recuuring problem when casting. I have a 9" 6-8 rod with WF 8 444 SL floating line. My problem is when casting often the front two metres of my line will land in the water in a mess! Do you think this could be anything to do with the kit, or is it just a matter of practise practise etc? |
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| Re: Casting problems old smoothound is who you wanna talk to, he is a casting instructor welcome to the forum __________________ Bens The Name And Catchings The Game Anti the Anti's |
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| Re: Casting problems Hello Luke Ben is right, Old Smoothound is the man for the best advice on all things fly fishing. Advising on casting is difficult, because its something you need to watch before suggesting what the problem might be. Having said all that, and at risk of confusing you further, I think what is happening is a combination of some or all of the following: 1. Is the line in good condition and free of 'memory' ? The 444 is a good line and from what I can remember is usually pretty supple and not prone to memory, however, if the mess you're talking about is due to the line wanting to coil up and not lie straight, then it needs some gentle stretching - ideally stretch the whole line out using a swivel at the one end - so that twists and memory have a chance of working their way out. Memory is the line 'remembering' the coiled shape it sits in for much of the time on the reel. 2. If the line is not suffering from the above, then most likely this is a casting problem. The line should be pretty much straightened out on the back cast, before you forward cast. With an 8 weight I should think you will be able to feel the line tug a bit as it unfurls behind you and starts to 'load' your rod. This is the signal for you to forward cast. Practice just flicking the line behind you so that you can feel when this happens and see how if you wait too long the line energy is lost and it lands behind you, not waiting for the 'tug' and the rod doesn't get loaded (like a spring, ready for the forward cast). 3. On the forward cast the stop is all important. With a small amount of line out, try stopping you casting hand by smacking it into your other hand. Notice the 'flick' of the rod. This is what fires your line out over the water. 4. Try to keep the hand and forearm as one, i.e., dont bend your wrist. I think that everyone 'breaks' their wrist a bit, its hard not too, but the casting movement really is like a clock or metronome hand, pivoting around your elbow, between the 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock positions. Its the 'stopping' at these positions that causes the rod to bend and load and then the re-straightening of the rod that give the line its energy. 5. A tip I was given, which I found quite useful was the 'backwards 7'. Imagine your arm moving up and back on the backcast and forwards, almost in a straight line 'punch' on the forwards cast (your casting hand is tracing the backwards 7 shape). I know this contradicts the pivot description above, but imagining this movement while casting helped me in the beginning. 6. Try firing the line out (sort of aiming while stopping on the forward cast) somewhere in the distance, a bit above eye level. If the line lands in a heap, it has hit the water before it has unfurled out. Therefore your forward cast stop is maybe happening at 3 or 3.30 on the clock face, rather than 2. The energy in the line travels along it, away from you, unrolling and should then 'turn over' the fly just as the whole line lands on the surface in one graceful delicate landing. This is, (in my experience) almost unachievable, but if the line is pretty much unfolded by the time it lands, then its getting there. Sorry if this is hard to follow. There are some diagrams and stuff on other sites on the web, which may explain some of these concepts better. Do a Google search for fly casting. Most important of all is to probably get some advice from a qualified casting instructor. Your local water may know of someone, or look in the back of the magazines, or search for APGAI or STANIC on the web. My own experience was very frustrating in the beginning. I was taught by a friend, who did well, but it didn't all come together until I had a couple of 'proper' lessons with a qualified instructor. Don't be ashamed to get out on the grass, away from people as much as possible (local football pitch or a quiet park) and practice. People will take the p*ss, but better that you get it right away from the water, than spook fish during precious fishing time. Hope this is of some help, keep in touch and good luck. |
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| Re: Casting problems Thanks guys, have checked smoothhounds replies to similar questions and picked up a couple of good pointers (not letting go of line on back cast for example). Miles you offer good advice, i like the 7 idea and will try it out Saturday, i think my problems relate to stopping the rod at around the 2.30 o clock position and basically firing the line at the water as opposed to over the water - if that makes any sense!! i think casting a fly line is one of the most frustrating experiences but also one of the most rewarding if done properly! |
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| Re: Casting problems I was taught to imagine a 7ft rugby player in front of me an if i hit him on the head with me rod im a gonna, after an hour or so of catching the bush next to me (12ft away!) i moved pegs to a relaitivly clear spot and eventually managed to imagin this guy standing there an my casting improved non-stop, i now gotta try an get it out with teh wind in my face (as it usually is!). |