rigs

[baitmaster]

now i,m not very good on talking about rigs and bits but techno,s out there might like to read about it .but i seem to fish like most by deciding on the day what i feel is the best choice to use .
with most of my carp fishing i try and do my home work and learn a bit about the water i,m going to take on this inturn includes the bottom make up of a lake and with that i can generally give me a starting point for which rig i,m going to use .
now i,ve read books and articles on the so called latest rig and most i think its confusing and in most of all my carping surrounds keeping it simple and firstly i put importance in location then presentation no point having your your latest rig and bait sitting in the middle of nowhere where the fish ain,t going to find it .
so from that we now know that location is important .
once we have established where we are going to place a bait you have to then decided on what rig to use now this is going to sound confusing cause i think you also at this point need to know what technique you are going to use IE: safty clip, inline, running ,cause if you are fishing on a slope you don,t really want the technique to be wrong and a pear lead set up rolls and messes up your presentation you see what i,m getting at now, also you have to at this point decide whether you are going to use double baits, pop ups or single bottom baits or other baits such as particles or maggots etc
ok just to simplify this we will stick to rigs .and i think its simple i my own opinion and thats to use three main types and then if you tweek your rigs or change you normally will find its a variation on the original one picked .
now below is a picture of 4 rigs i mainly use and you will notice that although there are four two are variation on the other two .

now as you can see there is nothing very special with the above rigs and as i stated earlier just keep it simple .
now of all these the two i use the most is the simple D rig and the line aligner and the other two are variation on this now i,ll try and explain it .
the difference between the line aligner and the knotless not is the tubing coating over the eye and down the shank and i believe that the knotless knot rig was born and became widly used because of initialy laziness by angler not wanting to be bothered to put the tubing on and fiddling with needles to pull the hooklength back through the front of the piece of tubing .
this while is ok but in my opinion greatly reduces hook up rates and i have myself dropped more fish on using the knotless knot rig than the other this is because it does not turn the hook as quick into the carps mouth as the line aligner . so i only will use the knotless knot in a emergency situations during the night but normally i have standard line aligners all ready made up in my rig wallet.
now to the Drig as you can see by the miss spelt name the obvious difference this is so you can balance your pop ups off the bottom at a required height again on pressured waters you may need to tweek this by critically balancing it this is done by adding just enough weight so the bait drops very gently onto the bottom cause it also critically balance when carpy suck it in it shoots in to the carps mouth and will be just that little more harder to get rid of .
now again i have used pop up but i personal do not like them and fish them very rarely unless either in an above situation or if i,m using a zig rig which is again variation on either a D rig or knotless knot and this variation in only in the length off rig, and is probably about the only time now that a knotless rig get used with confidence and in conjuction with a pop up only .
so a simple Drig now behind the line aligner is my second favourite and i use this rig when i need a bit more natural movement into my bottom bait on the lake bed . and because of its make up it actually works by as the carp ejects the bait because of the d loop there in a delay and the hook will go into its mouth .
now i,ve only breifly covered this subject and there are other rigs but most are variation on the four i have listed
so in conclusion keep it simple get location right then presentation and then if you want to experiment with playing with the lengths of rigs or different hooklength materials which again is another thread on its own and then you got your hook selection but normally this is simply matched to bait size .
well i hope the techno,s enjoyed this .
i hope i have helped some by trying to simplify a very confusing subject that can blow you away .

tightlines
kevin

[biggun]

Nice one Kev,once again a good informative read.
Cheers

[Norfolkboy]

Great read there Kev.

Is there any reason for the different hooklink materials used on the rigs (seems to be a different one for each rig)?

I know you said it's a whole new thread, but just wondered if it was down to certain factors like using pop - ups etc...

[baitmaster]

there is actually only two type of rig material used in the picture they are

korda IQ
kryston mantis gold

for an easy answer to hook link material i try to match the hooklength material to the condition IE if a bit weedy i,ll use a green coloured hook link material or if i feel they are a bit spooky and very clear conditions i go for flourocarbon hooklinks or over sandy i go for a brown colour hooklink .
and then you got the time when you start having to think of soft hooklinks and stiff hooklinks for certain situation so again different situation will makeyou decide what right for the water or conditions and unfortunately this is where the fun really starts cause you have to like any thing experiment to find out what best ./

tightlines
kevin

[pingu]

wow thats some post

well done kev,


will re read with hooks and line handy next time and have a play

[Fishing Forum Admin]

Cracking post kev

[adam garland]

very interesting points made by baitmaster ...

BUT ....IMO there are very few rigs if any that hook the fish when being ejected ...

For those who beleive this try putting a set up rig in your mouth and blow it out and see how many times it hooks you ...
Then put the same set up rig in your mouth and try moving away with the rig in your mouth as soon as it tightens the hook will usualy turn and hook you .

I use the keith moors d rig myself for 99 percent of my angling ( as good as reffered to in this thread as the simple d rig ) ...

The rig works for many reasons ...

1. The angle of the line when it leaves the eye of the hook is spot on ( best created with the esp stiff rigger hooks ( the rigger has an out turned eye so creates a great angle .

2. Because the bait is fished on a D ( usualy tied half way round the bend of the hook ) When the rig is picked up the hook travells in to the carps mouth bend first positioned just under the bait with the point ready to take hold .

3.Also because the bait is allowed to move up and down the d freeley when the fish does move with the rig in its mouth there is a good chance that the bait may move and hook stay where it is .

4.Another good point about the rig is when the fish picks it up it is usualy hooked by moving away from the lead ( the link tightens and the hook flips over ). At this point all the fish can do is shake its head and suck and blow to shed the hook .On some rigs the carp can blow the bait and loosed the hook hold on this rig when the carp blows all that happens is the bait will travell down the d and the hook will keep hold ....


Im sure there are more advantages than that but best for keith to any more as its his invention ...

Great rig and ill always be in debt to him for showing me it ....

cheers mate..

[keith moors]

Thanks Adam. I think you've covered it fairly accurately but one other advantage is that, because your baits are tied to the ring, you can fish any size of bait or any number of baits without needing to tie a new rig.