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| Casting Problems As this is my first posting I'd like to say hello to all out there. Being a new recruit to the vast angling brigade out there I'll probably be asking a lot of the usual rookie stuff but the one that is really getting to me at the moment is the problem of the line wrapping over the top of the float when I cast making it sit wrong in the water. To make things worse I've started reeling the line back in when It has been cast correctly because I'm expecting it to have wrapped itself up. Any sugestions or reasons for this happening will be gratefully received. |
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| Re: Casting Problems im no float expert tho i have used them often in my time .. firstly i always found a sideways cast reduced the gear under the float tangling with it . also if the float is attached with rubbers top and bottom ( prolly not with a carp float ) then swap it for one that is only threaded through an eye at the bottom and fixed into place with split shot .. its normally where the last inch is , between the top float rubber and top of the float that the mainline sits over... a right royal pain in the arris it is too Im sure BB or one of the others can give you some more detailed info with pictures ![]() __________________ Shore Species 2012: Dab-Flounder-Herring-L.S.Dogfish-Pouting-Shore Rockling-5 Bearded Rockling-Small Eyed Ray-Turbot-Whiting |
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| Re: Casting Problems oh, and welcome to the forum ! ! __________________ Shore Species 2012: Dab-Flounder-Herring-L.S.Dogfish-Pouting-Shore Rockling-5 Bearded Rockling-Small Eyed Ray-Turbot-Whiting |
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| Re: Casting Problems hi and welcome to the forum, If your line is crossing the top of your float, i'm presuming your using a stick or double rubbers on the float, which is normal for stick float fishing, when 'trotting the stream' on a river. you could try fixing the float bottom end only as a waggler, this will allow even if it does cross, to allow the line to pass, it also suggests that you are putting your heavy shot in the lower area closer to the hook, try shotting your bulk shot at both sides of the float, then taper the remaining shot down toward the hook, smallest at the bottom by the hook. Some swivel float adapters could help, these have a rubber which fits at the bottom of the float, then put your bulk shot either side. hope this helps __________________ good luck and tight lines chris lifes to short for animosity. |
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| Re: Casting Problems From what you are saying it sounds like you are fishing a lake. Give is a few mre details about what you are fishing for. Baits, hooks and stiff and we' be got something to work on. welcome to the forum. __________________ Just remember, not all the heroes died. www.helpforheroes.org.uk |
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| Re: Casting Problems I've been fishing at a local pool for carp as well as some river fishing using a match rod and reel with 5lb main line and 4lb hook length with size 10 hooks |
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| Re: Casting Problems If you have enough room overhead you should be OK with a waggler. When you say small fish I assume then that your using maggots ? If you are carp fishing a switch toi pellets (if they are fished a lot) would help. I'll stick to the float for now though. As far as floats on a stillwater go, the only time you'd fish a float top and bottom is if you are using purely to indicate bites with your bait nailed to be bottom with lead or if it is increbbly calm and you are fishing super sensitive for roach. A correctly shot waggler will cast MUCH further than a stick float of the same capacity on most occcasions. So here's some ideas. First , make sure the spool of your reel is filled nearly to the rim. If it is too low then the friction dramatically reduces distance. Second, do you really need to be casting miles ? This time of year , maybe as the fish will probably be in deeper water, just don't assume that you have to. Closer is a lot easier all round, especially when you've just started. People fishing at range either know what they are doing or are pretending they do. It is not an easy thing to do as your feed is going to spread more and the float be a lot harder to present well. Thirdly. A properly shot waggler will have 60-80 percent (if not more) of the weight around it's base. If you try to put weight down the line you get a yo-yo effect where the weight and the float try to overtake each other. This leads to tangles and dramatically reduces the casting distance. If you need to get some weight down the line then it's a good idea to see each shot as a tangle hinge to the one above it. What I mean is this. If you have a bulk of shot near the float then the next one needs to be just after halfway between the float and the hook. If you try to fold the hook back to the float, using the shot as a hinge, it should not reach. Then the next one goes just over halfway between the hook and middle shot . Shots should also be getting smaller. As you near the hook the weight of the shot will not have such a dramatic effect on tangling so the last few dust shot can go pretty much as you wish. Right rod? If you are trying to cast a light float with a heavy carp rod you are never going to compress the rod tip. It's like casting with a broom handle. A golf shot distance comes from the flex in the shaft not the force you try to smack it with, same with a fishing rod. Matching gear to rod will make a huge difference. Enough shot ? Commonly people think that the lighter the float the more sensitive and this is part of the answer. The challenge is that if your float can't be cast far enough or when it is is not under control, you may as well not bother. Don't be afraid to use some lead. It is the relative bouyancy of the float that matters. To a fish pulling down on a 4AA waggler shot to within a dust of going under, there is little difference to this and a 3BB shot also shotted to go under with an extra 8. I always err on the side of a heavier rather than a lighter float. Control the float as it lands. Commonly tangles are happening because people cast the float as hard as they can and want it to go as far as it can. So they let it land in a heap. If you "check" the float gently to straighten it all out before it hits the water, it will land in straight line and as it drops through the water it doesn't land in coils and fall through itself. Finally (for now), don't cast with the rod completely vertically over your head. OK this might be a bit more of a personal thing. I am right handed so cast with the rod at about 10-15 degrees over my right should rather than directly overhead (unless I am feeder fishing, I'm on about float fishing). I look at the spot I want the float to land in and then let loose. Please shout if you need anything else, I've probably totally confused you now. Cheers , Pete. __________________ Just remember, not all the heroes died. www.helpforheroes.org.uk Last edited by barbelblanker; 01-17-2012 at 05:23 PM. |
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| Re: Casting Problems Thanks for all that. Most of the things you suggest are already part of my set-up but perhaps not as fine tuned as they should be. I'm not casting any great distance which is why it gets so frustrating when things go wrong. As my lad has just taken up fishing I'm trying to keep everything simple for us both so we can enjoy the day rather than spend most of our time trying to just get the hook in the water. |
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