Anchoring

[Growler]

I'm looking to go out on the next set of neaps and i'm still unsure of the safest way to anchor and retrieve. I've been recommended to use a side anchor but would appreciate a concise explanation on how it works. Also any info on lazy lines and alderney rings. I've had loads of names thrown at me but very little solid explanation.
Keep up the good work.

[Kaptin Kod]

Hello mate

just to give us a better idea, what size craft are we talking about, make model, length etc. may help a bit to give you some advice

[Growler]

Thanks for the reply,

she's a shetland 535, 18 feet long and practically all cabin. There is a roof hatch but it's an awkward stretch to the bow roller and cleat.

[Lookfar]

I've never side anchored myself but it goes like this. The lazy line is a line tied off on the bow cleat and run back along the cabin edge and into the cockpit. Make sure it is too short to reach the prop if the loose end goes for a swim. The anchor and warp are stored on deck, usually in a cut down barrel.
When you've selected your spot, the anchor goes over the side and warp is paid out until you are happy then the warp is double looped and the loose end of the lazy line is clipped or tied through the loops. You'll have to work out suitable knots/clips etc for yourself, I never tried it.
Now you've got one end of the lazy line tied to the bow roller and the other to the warp. Pay out some more warp and it'll go slack as the lazy line takes up the load of anchoring the boat. Secure the loose warp! When you want the anchor back, tighten up on the warp and haul yourself forward. That'll slacken the lazy line and you can untie it as it comes into the boat. Downside of this technique is that you are beam on to the tide as you haul.

The Alderney Buoy method is potentially very dangerous but also much easier on the back and pretty universally used. A large buoy is free to slide on the anchor warp via a stainless steel ring. The boat motors uptide at an angle to the warp and water pressure forces the buoy down the warp towards the anchor. This gives a near vertical angle of pull on the anchor and will break the trip if the anchor is stuck (trips explained later). Then it will lift the anchor up as far as the buoy. The dangerous aspect comes from the fact that you are motoring towards your warp. If you get it round your prop, the boat will swing stern-on to tide and in a big tide will founder in seconds, literally driven under by pressure of water. Done carefully and responsibly the method is OK but until you've had it demonstrated by another skipper I'd advise you to go for straightforward brute force hauling.

Trips. Pulling down the line of an anchor just drives it in further. A tripped anchor is attached to the chain at the claw end then the chain is clipped to the boatward end of the stock by thin twine or cable ties. When these are snapped by a vertical pull, the pull on the anchor transfers to the head and literally pulls the flukes out backwards.

Final point is anchor types and chains. An anchor needs a horizontal pull to bite properly. Hence you have a heavy length of chain, to keep the pull low to the seabed. You want AT LEAST the length of the boat in 6-8mm chain. You also want to pay out your warp to between 3 and up to 6 times the depth of water. This also helps keep the angles of pull near horizontal as the tide puts a bow in the warp. It is all a function of depth and tide as well. In 20ft of water and virtually no flow, you could do the job with a breeze block and the wife's washing line.
Basic rules on anchors - Danforth is OK for sand/mud, grapnel for heavy reef, fishermans a good all-rounder but use a bigger weight one and the claw, plough or Bruce patterns for mixed grounds. For an 18ft Shetland I'd suggest a 7.5kg Bruce but it really does depend on your intended use.

Steve

[Growler]

Hi Steve

Many thanks for the advice,i'll make sure to watch some-one use the alderney ring method as you say. It sounds fatal if done badly.

Tight Lines
Growler

[Codfather]

For a good discription of the Alderney ring method with pictures go here Anchoring then Hints and Tips.

Regards
Coddy

[tommy a]

Can someone let me know - if you have a rope cutter attached with your prop as we do then surely the risk of the problems mentioned are basically nullified ?

I would like to get an Anchor Yankor but I am concerned about the potential problems - does the cutter not make a big difference ?

Thanks

[dbmorgan238]

what a fantastic answer !!!. My boat is a Merry Fisher 655. I've tried anchoring a few times and always I,m in trouble lifting the anchor. Its OK in a calm but if the wind get up Its a bit hairy crawling passed the cabin to the front of the boat. Next time I,m out I will definitely try your method.

[duncan]

tommy - yes and no

never a guarantee with rope cutters
if it's going to cut anything I suppose it will be your anchor line - but wave good bye to the chain and anchor! (surely even easier to just cut it off instead of recovering each time????!)
don't forget getting caught up on the rudder as a hazard in a big tide too

[cork bouy]

Super link from codfather.
Just a few more points that help.
NEVER EVER do this on your own in a strong run of tide, as you cannot see your rope and steer at the same time.Have somebody watch the rope the whole time.
Always have a very sharp knife on the boat, preferbaly in a fixed location,to solely be used to cut any fouled lines.
Make sure your marker bouy is high vis,and can easily support the weight of your chain and anchor.
When you go forward to retrieve ,give the bouy a wide semi circular berth,and do it all in one movement at a min of 10 knots.This helps to keep the rope away from your boat for a longer period.
Make sure you tow the anchor for 30-40 meters,as you do not want to abort,and start again,as you will not see your rope for a while due to it sinking in the tide.
I have found that a large shackle is better than the rings as you can take them off when you need to much faster,and only 1 foot of rope between the bouy and the shackel this will avoid tangles.
Once you have done this once or twice in slack water,and with an extra pair of eyes it is very safe and easy. Good luck.